Timing Belt. Before I order these parts I'd like some expertise from the forum if these are the right parts or will it fit in my car. Only thing you need to change the timing belt is the timing belt. Water pump is a good idea at the same time, as well as any tensioners should come in the timing belt kit. The cam gears and pulley are irrelevant. Also need to make sure that pulley isn't for a 4g Andddddd wrong water pump. That's CC orientation. Thanks Rigby Would this be the right water pump?
Water Pump Mitsubishi Pajero iO 4cyl 1. King Julian New Member. Although if its just a stock engine and your current pulley is ok you will jut be wasting you money. King Julian said:. So you're changing the belt yourself?
Let us know how it goes, I need to do mine! Ok started pulling things apart to change the timing belt and water pump. But I am stuck with this bolt can't seem to take out, tried lowering the engine, but doesn't go far enough for this bolt slide out. Sahin2 New Member. Leave it in there and undo all the other bolts and it'll come out with the centre cover That balancer has to come off though.
Wait that's not the centre timing cover But still just undo the other bolts and that'll come off. Finally finished, never again attempting to do this without a Rattle Gun took me 6hrs to loosen the crank pulley bolt.
Now I suffer the aching body after trying to take that bolt off. Breaker bar and key mate. Good breaker bar and socket and rest it against the body or k frame disable your spark and tap the key, the starter will crack that bolt loose real quick.
Do the cam and crank oil seals and water pump while you are there.The Mitsubishi Lancer — Mirage 1. The 1. The majority of modified Lancer vehicles utilise these engines and was not until the later model CG Lancer that the capacity was increased to the 2.
Along with other drive line upgrades, you can have a smooth reliable car, with improved handling, and provide that little bit of sporty power to keep most people satisfied. This section is to be used as a guide in your modification — we will be breaking this into sections to provide a well balanced vehicle. Additionally the modification package will be set-up so that as you increase the power of the vehicle, your alternative items like brakes etc are matched to your new power level.
This guide has also been done in an order which provides successive gains from the modifications power wise. Jumping say to number 20 first, may result in a LOSS of power until you have done other items to match its effect. RPW does not take any responsibility for people performing these modifications on there car without professional involvement. Check with your local government regulations before modifying your car as these items may not be legal in your country.
The group 1 modifications are designed for the every day driver, wanting improvements across the board without sacrificing road comfort, fuel economy or driveability. These are also the baseline modifications for the more extensive Group 2 modifications. Standard horsepower for the vehicle is 65kw on average at the flywheel. The Mitsubishi gear shifter system is one of the better ones on the market. But that does not mean that people do not want to improve them.
This is one of those modifications that can be done at any time. The RPW Modified units suit most people who want something to reduce the long throw and give a more precise feel to where the gears are located. The factory air box system on these vehicles, is quite restrictive. There are several ways to free them up — we recommend two main options. The Cold air kit relocates to the front bumper, pulling cold air especially where utilised with a after market front bumper. This should produce an approximate gain of around 1 — 2kw with improved throttle response and torque.
Okay you have done the easy mods, now time to do something about the exhaust. Contrary to what many people believe, without any form of induction work or fuel work, fitting of exhaust upgrades are only marginally beneficial. At this point you must reach your first major decision on where you wish to go with the vehicle — in summary we recommend the following options. RPW Systems done in house, are guaranteed to not drone, have a great sound and provide much improved throttle response and in some cases, improved fuel economy.Mitsubishi Timing belt set chain tensioners idlers sprockets guide rails lifters and components Balance shaft elimination kits.
Santaquin, Utah or Toll free e-mail Call toll free to purchase at: U. PCI - Our product line is "not" for the retail trade. The products we offer should only be installed by a professional certified mechanic with current installation procedure data. Severe engine damage can occur from simple mistakes when installing timing components.
A professional knows the proper procedures for a safe repair. We discourage the installation of OHC timing system products by the general public. This is a job for the professional installer only. Mitsubishi 1. Shaft Tens. Replaces the hydraulic system completely and easily.
No additional conversion parts required. Other Related Web Sites Page 1. Frequently Asked Questions.
DIY timing belt 4G94
Other Related Web Sites Page 2. Tension Adjusters are not included in the set. Earlier models used a hydraulic style Tensioner. Hydraulic Tension Adjusters are not included in Sets. Lancer incl. Guide Rail top no longer used - delete from application. Hydraulic Tension Adjusters are not included in sets. Tension Adjusters are not included in the Sets. Evolution models, Outlander Have you decked your block?
Resurfaced your head? Installed an aftermarket crankshaft or camshafts? Improper cam timing can lead to reduced performance, increased fuel consumption and an increased likelihood of detonation. If you have a single overhead camshaft SOHC engine, a camshaft that was not degreed-in properly can cause the valve events to happen sooner advanced or later retarded than originally intended.
When all valve events are advanced in respect to crankshaft rotation piston positionthe engine will typical produce some additional horsepower at lower engine speeds. Unfortunately, the engine may also lose performance at higher engine speeds. Conversely, when all valve events are retarded with respect to crankshaft rotation, the engine will typically lose horsepower at lower engine speeds. However, the engine may also gain performance at higher engine speeds.
With SOHC engines, the relationship between the intake and exhaust events is fixed; as both intake and exhaust lobe are ground at a fixed lobe-separation angle on the camshaft itself. Hence, an adjustable cam sprocket will simply advance or retard all of the valve events while keeping the lobe separation angle constant.
This means that a tuning session on a chassis dyno will quickly allow the cam timing to be advanced or retarded to the position that provides the optimum power curve. While taking the time to degree the cam on a SOHC engine may be unnecessary if a chassis dyno will be used in the future for tuning the cam sprocket, taking the time to degree the camshafts on DOHC double over- head camshaft engines can avoid some serious potential headaches. More often, cam timing errors are different between the intake and exhaust cams.
One cam may be advanced more than the other; one cam might be retarded more than the other; or one cam might be advanced while the other retarded. These differences result in a change to the lobe separation angle.
The lobe separation angle establishes the relationship between the timing of intake and exhaust events. Why is that important? Lobe separation angle changes even as small as one degree could be the reason why an engine can or cannot run at 25psi of boost pressure without encountering detonation. On DOHC engine the lobe-separation angle is simply calculated by adding the intake centerline to the exhaust centerline and then dividing by two. In the case of this RB26DETT, the intake cam had an intake centerline of degrees and an exhaust centerline of degrees.
This would equate to a lobe separation angle of If the intake cam was advanced four degrees to a centerline of degrees and the exhaust camshaft was kept at degrees, the lobe separation angle would be With a If you are taking the time to build your DOHC engine, get the tools and take the time to degree in your camshafts. Finding and correcting cam timing issues long before your engine sees its first drop of fuel will likely lead to a longer and happier life for your engine. July 26, 0.
Here is an example:. The wheel at the right of the picture is what the cam belt rides on. This wheel is attached to the cam itself. The cam, then actuates the rocker arms which you can see are pointing to either side of the head.
This is an example of a 3-valve per cylinder head 2-intake and 1-exhaust per cylinder. The 2-valve per cylinder is a much mor prevalent configuration. In this example, you can see there are two separate cam shafts riding atop the head.
DOHC engines usually have a configuration of 2-intake and 2-exhaust valves per cylinder, but in some cases like the configuration Volkswagen-Audi Group VAG uses a five valve per cylinder 3-intake and 2 exhaust. In most cases, the cam directly actuates the valve without the use of a rocker arm it may or may not have a "lifter" between the cam and the valve. OHV configurations use a centrally located cam shaft central to the engine blockand actuates the valves through the use of lifters, pushrods, and rocker arms.
The OHC configuration does away with most of this for the reduction of mass in the valve train. This reduction of mass usually means the engine can run safer and cleaner at higher engine speeds due to less inertial pressures on the valve train. Also, since this is more of a direct actuation of the valves, there is less flex due to push rods and a more accurate valve actuation occurs.
The OHC configuration is a lot more complex than the OHV in that there are a more parts which can go bad, which can cause catastrophic consequences if it fails. OHC engines are usually "interference motors", which means the valves and the pistons occupy the same space at different times.
The piston will move up into the valves and usually destroy the valves and the entire head assembly. There are no warning signs without taking the engine apart to tell you when it is worn out, so following the manufacturers replacement interval is very important.
More valves means the engine can intake and exhaust more gasses from the engine. Think of a large circle, say one which is 4" across or say 10cm for you unruly metric folks out there. How many 2" 5cm circles can you fit within it? The answer is two. Now take the same 4" circle and fit 1. The number is somewhere around four. A 4" circle has the area of A 2" circle has the area of 3. With the 1. Note: While I'm not sure if four could fit in the circle exactly, the example is valid for educational purposes.
Now imagine these circles are the valves in the cylinder head. The more valves you can fit into the head, the greater the surface area you can cover. This allows for greater performance from the engine. I'm sure there are other reasons. What should you do?This is an easy job - nothing you cannot achieve with a good sunny day and some good sockets - I didn't rush this and listed the times so you can see how I went.
Back off tensioner idler and remove, remove belt WOOO! I chose not to replace the crankshaft and camshaft oil seals, lots of work and without any sockets big enough to brace the seal and room to swing against them I have left it for now.
And then I find that the dayco suplied belt is the wrong one, should have beenit was a While this work seems easy, I would advice the "novice" to stay away from doing this I will take a picture of a "hand made" tool for this It's too bad about having to wait for the right parts, we all know that feeling!! I bought the same kit on ebay I just got the kit today.
Lucky I remembered your posting and I thought that I will check but I didn't expect the same problem. I have send an email to Dayco about this. This job is not the easier work, having the wrong part supplied doesn't help. The timing belt kit is getting sorted and I should get a replacement send by Dayco directly. It might be wise to stay away from the KTBAP, only 2 of us got the wrong belt, but no point trying to get a third one!!
Should I use this gasket I am not sure what to do and I tend to not want to use it but if someone have some comment about this Again the old KTBAP no longet exist and it might be wise to not buy it, they might be ok but they might not be. I understood that seller on ebay are not authorised seller and some problem have arrised from people swapping content from the Dayco kit. It may have nothing to do with this but the seller that I bought the faulty kit got closed Did someone ever counted the amount of teeth on the belt mpi sohc?
I want to start looking at replacing the belt on my wife's iO. Francois Hamman. Let's start with - which engine do you have 1. For the 1. It appears to me that the 1. I could be wrong but the 1.
The teeth have the same sizes. Faced with a very similar quandary I ordered my belt from the dealer, and ended up paying a ridiculous price because some bright spark air freighted it from Japan.Forum style by ZTech. Log in X User Name Register.
Mitsubishi Repair Manuals
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Hey guys, Came across a very informative post on a different forum today. If you go about changing the timing belt on your 2. The reason for this is because the rear engine balance shaft driven by the oil pump rotates twice for every single revolution of the pump sprocket. You own a 2. You positioned the 1 cylinder at TDC before you removed the timing belt. You can "feel" the balance shaft's influence on the oil pump as you turn the oil pump sprocket.
If you align the oil pump timing marks and the oil pump sprocket feels like it wants to rotate and "run away" from the marks, it's degrees out of time. Rotate it degrees and try again, This time, you will feel the sprocket "want" to head towards the timing marks. When you feel this, you have got the timing correct.
Hope this helps somebody! Good luck with your timing belt replacement! Last edited by mygalantwasfree; at PM "Speed never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary You cant just rely on your senses to do t-belt job. There's a very easy way to do it which is used by Mitsu mechanics. On the back of the block there's this 14mm bolt. Behind this bolt is the oil pump balance shaft with a hole in it. That hole comes around every 2 full turns of the oil pump sprocket.
You line up the oil pump mark and then you stick a screw driver in that hole. If it goes half way in then its not good. Turn the oil pump sprocket another full revolution, try to push the screw driver in, it should go all the way.
Once its in all the way, line up the marks and install the t-belt. Dont forget to remove the screw driver and reinstall the bolt. I'm saying this is the correct way to do it in case you have to install a brand new oil pump that is hard to turn, because it doesnt have a few thousand miles on it.
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